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If you haven’t made much use of mechanical pencils, you could be missing out on a useful little tool. They’re quick and easy to use, reliable, always sharp, and a snapped point just means a couple of clicks to get going again, not having to stop and reach for the sharpener and a bin.

Don’t be put off by how long this ‘beginner’s guide’ is - these pencils really aren’t remotely difficult or complicated to use. No bad things will happen if you just stop reading and go and buy a mechanical pencil, you’ll just be a bit better informed to make a choice if you keep reading…

So why might you use a mechanical pencil rather than the super-simple choice of wood?

• No sharpening! Probably the top selling point (see what I did there?) of a mechanical pencil is that you just click out the lead and write or draw. They don’t get blunt, and they don’t need sharpening. As the point wears down, you just click the button to extend more lead. When a stick of lead runs out, a few more clicks will feed in the next one.
• No change in length as you use them. As you use up a wooden pencil, it gets shorter and shorter. Eventually you get to the point that it’s not really comfortable to use any more, but you still feel bad about throwing it away. (If that’s a problem you have, look for pencil extenders, they can solve the problem too!) But a mechanical pencil is always the same length, it always balances the same in your hand. Some artists use them almost entirely for this reason - they want to know how the pencil is going to feel and how it will balance, without having to change how they draw as it’s used.
• Style. Yes, that might seem a bit superficial, but the way a pen or pencil you’re using looks might be important to you. While we’re not one of them, there are a lot of companies where you might get a strange look for using a school pencil in a meeting! And even if none of that applies, there’s still something nice about using a well engineered tool, even when it’s something as simple as a pencil.

But what about a ballpoint pen? Why might a mechanical pencil be better than a ballpoint?

• The flexibility of the marks it can make - anything from pale shading up to dark lines. A very big deal for drawing and sketching, but it can be nice for writing too.
• Erasability - while there are erasable ballpoints and rollerballs, why not just use a pencil?
• Permanence. Yes, I know, it sounds contradictory. But if nobody tries to erase pencil, it stays put. The ink in a lot of ballpoint and rollerball pens can fade over time, but pencil will outlast the paper it’s used on. Historians are usually pretty happy when old notes were made in pencil, because there’s more chance of it remaining readable.

So is it all good? Are there no disadvantages? Well, no, it’s not all good…

• Complexity. A wooden pencil is simple, and perfectly understood. You can see exactly what’s going on with it. A mechanical pencil may be very reliable, but there’s still an internal mechanism that takes a bit more understanding than the wooden tube with a graphite filling we know as the graphite sausage. No, sorry, wooden pencil.
• Breakable lead. The thin leads used in most mechanical pencils can be easier to break if you’re a bit on the heavy-handed side. There are mechanical pencils with thicker lead, but then you can be back to the problem of having to sharpen the tip up when you need a fine point. It’s worth mentioning on this point that good modern leads like Pentel’s AIN Stein range are much stronger than these leads used to be, so the solution might just be different lead, if this is a problem you have.
• Lead jams can happen, but they’re pretty rare. They’re usually the result of a bit of rough handling - a tiny bit of lead gets broken off inside the pencil, and gets stuck in the mechanism. In normal use you’d probably go years without it happening at all, but if a mechanical pencil stops working, this is usually why. Most can be unscrewed at the tip, and the cover of the tiny clutch mechanism removed. At that point, push the button in, and push back the little ring that holds the clutch closed, and give it a few taps. That’s usually enough to get things going again.

Then there’s the environmental question. The thing is, this one isn’t as clear-cut as you might assume. Wooden pencils are, well, made from wood. So trees are cut down to make them, which is bad. But the vast majority are made from sustainably managed forests, which is good. Most mechanical pencils are made from plastic, which is bad. But many are made from recycled plastic, which is good. And most of them should last for years of use, they aren’t being thrown away after each use. You’re just adding more lead, which is good. But the lead is usually sold in plastic tubes, which is bad.

You see what we mean? You soon tie your brain in a knot trying to work it out. On balance, wooden pencils are maybe better overall, but mechanical pencils last a long time, so any harm is probably reasonably minimal.

So what do you need to know to buy and use a mechanical pencil? Well, you can start with the choice of lead sizes, because pencils made for one lead size can only use that size. They come in different widths, most commonly 0.5mm and 0.7mm, often shortened to just 05 and 07. At the simplest, 05 is usually used for drawing, and 07 for writing. But you might prefer a thinner lead for writing (a lot of people do, myself included), and rough sketching is often better with a thicker lead. The thicker the lead, the stronger it will be, but the thicker the line will be too.

Plenty of other sizes are available. Quite a lot of pencils add 0.3mm and 0.9mm to the choices, with 09 being good for the more heavy-handed, and 03 being good for small writing and drawing, if you don’t mind being a bit more gentle with it. Beyond those, there are even 0.2mm pencils, though that needs some clever engineering to support the lead in use. And at the thicker end, 2mm leads are reasonably common, though they tend to be used in clutch pencils rather than mechanical pencils, and other leads can go up to 5.6mm. If you’re not sure, 0.5 and 0.7mm are the popular choices for good reason.

Lead grades are a choice you can make later, and you might already have a good idea what you prefer. As with wooden pencils, HB is the ‘default’ choice, and a good balance for most people. Softer leads, with higher ‘B’ numbers, will give a darker line with less pressure, but tend to get breakable as they get more extreme. And harder leads, with higher ‘H’ numbers, also tend to get more breakable as they go up, with a paler line. If you want to avoid breakage, start with HB. For writing, a darker line with less pressure can be good, so softer leads can feel nicer to write with - up to 2B should still be quite strong enough for normal use.

Most mechanical pencils can keep a few spare leads inside them, ready to go, so you don’t run out unexpectedly. We’ve seen problems when people have crammed too many leads in there - with most pencils it’s fine to put at least two or three extra leads inside, and some are quite happy with 12 or more leads, which is a lot of writing or drawing!

That does bring us to another point on lead sizes - the thinner the lead, the faster it will wear down. I’ve used a 0.2mm pencil that eats through leads quite quickly; and a 1.4mm pencil that took me months to get through a single lead with. Oddly enough, I’ve found I use up 2mm leads faster, because at that point (see what I did there?) I have to sharpen them.

What about other things to consider?

• Retractable tips - you’ll probably want this if you’re going to put the pencil in your pocket. If not, the tip can poke a hole through your pocket if you’re lucky. If you’re less lucky, the hole goes in you. Some need to be pushed firmly in while holding the button in, which makes them more fiddly to do, while others have a retract button or use a firmer push on the main button or a twist action to put the tip away.
• Price and materials - we’ll look at these together, because they’re usually connected. A cheap plastic pencil will be cheap and made of plastic. Though, admittedly, some of the best are also made from plastic, but very high quality plastics. Metal-bodied pencils will usually cost more, but can often take more use and rough handling. Even the most basic will usually still work perfectly for years, the mechanisms inside have been perfected over the years.
• Erasers can be handy. If you expect to use an eraser a lot, a separate eraser might be better, making the eraser on the pencil less important. If it’s more of an occasional thing, having a decent eraser on the pencil itself can be very useful. Many can be replaced, but check that spares are available if that’s important to you. And some mechanical pencils have longer erasers that can be extended out with a twist, so they’ll last a lot longer.

So they don’t need sharpening, work reliably, and can last a long time. If you’re tempted to try a mechanical pencil, give it a go - there are so many to choose from, and it’s hard to go wrong.

Why buy KUM? What makes their pencil sharpeners so good?

KUM sharpens better and lasts longer

1. The blade is hard.

   • It is made of ultra-hard high-carbon steel which can cut stone, since pencil leads are made of a mixture of graphite and various types of clay, some of which are often used as abrasives. The steel used in KUM blades has a carbon content of 62 hrc., more than ball bearings (55 hrc.), for example, or high-quality knives.

2. The blade is sharp.

   • Each blade is razor-sharp. A felt sharpening wheel (similar to leather) is used as the last step in the automatic sharpening process. Note: stainless steel cannot be used because it cannot be sharpened that much.

3. The blade is held absolutely immovable. Otherwise, it would not cut at all.

   • A screw holds the blade onto the sharpener’s body, even on the cheapest KUM sharpener. If the blade comes the slightest bit loose, the sharpener is completely disabled. A screw holds much better than the rivet used by some other manufacturers. The screw is one of the (few) visible signs of a good sharpener.
   • The blade is curved, not flat. Acting like a spring, it exerts constant upward pressure on the screw, which keeps the screw from loosening. Other manufacturers do not make curved blades.

4. The pencil is held with the right precision for the right cut.

   • Precision metal sharpener body: it is made of magnesium alloy. Fine tolerances are needed by a sharpener in order to hold and shape a pencil point properly. Magnesium is hard enough to be worked with a milling machine at these tolerances. Some competitors use aluminum, which is too soft and malleable for this type of milling, although much cheaper than magnesium. Other competitors use a die-cast metal body, which cannot be made with as much precision.
   • Precision plastic sharpener body: the injection mould is so accurate that it even allows for shrinkage of the plastic when it is ejected from the mould and cools.
   • In order to reduce wobble while turning the pencil, the sharpening hole is prolonged by an extra sleeve just forward of the inner cone. While the pencil is turning, that sleeve holds the outer pencil case, adding to the support provided by the cone-shaped part of the hole. As a result, the pencil remains perpendicular at all times. If the pencil wobbles, the graphite tip meanders even more than the wood casing, according to the mechanics of leverage. Yet graphite is brittle, and tends to break off when not treated with great care.

5. The pencil is easier to turn.

   • The sharpener’s blade is curved, not flat. As it is cutting the pencil, it weaves slightly up and down, dynamically adapting to the fibrous structure of the wood instead of ripping straight through it. The cutting friction is reduced, and therefore the pencil is easier to turn. This happens because the blade, made of carbon steel, is tempered and therefore flexible; its curved shape causes it to act like a spring pressing up against the screw that holds it in place. The tension thus created gives the blade its dynamic characteristics. KUM calls it the “Dynamic Torsion Action™”.
   • The cone-shaped inner surface of the sharpening hole is evenly rilled, reducing friction. This is particularly visible in our metal sharpener: there are tiny, even rills in the hole.

6. [for KUM Models #202, #S20A, #220A only] The pencil point is longer.

   • The sharpener blade is set at a narrower angle which produces a longer, sharper, and finer pencil point, which does not have to be sharpened as frequently.

7. Quality Control

   • Every sharpener blade is measured automatically during sharpening.
   • Every sharpener blade edge is inspected for sharpness before assembly.
   • Every sharpener blade is engraved with the KUM logo.

8. The sharpener’s blade lasts longer.

   • The blade is made of high-carbon steel, which is very hard (see above), lasting for thousands of sharpenings on normal pencils. N.B.: constant sharpening of pencils grade 3H and harder does require replacing the blade from time to time.
   • Rust protection of blade: high-carbon steel normally rusts quite easily, so three elaborate operations are used to protect every KUM blade, 1) polishing, 2) ultra-sonic cleaning, 3) coating with oil. This protection lasts for years except in warm climates with high relative humidity, where minute rust dots can form after six months. A stainless steel blade cannot be used in a sharpener because it cannot be sharpened enough. Rust does not affect the performance of a sharpener which is constantly used, since the sharpening action keeps the cutting edge clean.

9. The body of the sharpener lasts longer.

   • Polished magnesium body of metal sharpeners: the polished surface resists corrosion. It also gives the sharpener a cleaner and shinier appearance, and a brighter metal coloring. Special machinery is used in the polishing process.
   • The sharpener’s blade can be replaced, since it is screw-mounted. Some KUM sharpeners include spare blades. Spares blades are also available in convenient cases.

KUM Environmental manufacturing processes

• All manufacturing and waste disposal activities comply with stringent requirements.
• KUM packaging complies with the German “Green Dot” cardboard recycling program.
• Non-toxic coloring granulates are used in manufacturing all plastic KUM components.
• A new dry-painting process now produces KUM colored metal sharpeners. Once anodized, the new coating eliminates the use of a very toxic chemical product.
• New ultra-sonic blade cleaning and blade coating machines use almost no toxic compounds.
• Critical work areas in the factory have air filtering equipment for the well-being of the employees.

KUM Quality

The KUM company policy: “We make everything ourselves”.

• In-house design and machining of plastic injection molds: this allows absolute control over the dimensions of critical places such the “blade bed” and the cone-shaped hole of plastic sharpeners.
• In-house design and construction of all automatic and semi-automatic milling and assembly machines: this ensures that all metal and wooden products measure up to KUM specifications.
• In-house manufacture of all the parts of KUM products, except for the screw holding down the sharpener blade, ensures that all parts fit together correctly.

I think that Valentine’s Day and the month of February is the perfect time to focus on a little self-love. January can be a tough month for many, leaving us feeling tired and perhaps a little gloomy.

I’m going to guide you through some of my favourite journal pages that focus on self-love, along with sharing a printable that you can use in your own journal. I hope these help you to offer yourself a little kindness and support.

Well, we're very excited! We've finally managed to get TRAVELER'S COMPANY stuff on-board and we're totally smitten with it. If you've not heard of them before, well, they do notebooks. But they do them really well, and they also do lots of other bits and pieces that go, well, really well with notebooks, like pen holders and index clips and sticky pockets… But I'm getting ahead of myself.

They've been going since 2006 when they were founded in Japan by travelling fanatics keen to equip all you fellow wanderlusties (ooh, a new word!) with the perfect way of recording travel plans, flight details, lists of places to go and somewhere to write it all up once you've been there. And the perfect way? Well, that's up to you, because we're all different. And if you don't do much traveling? That's ok, they're just really nice notebooks and covers, they work just as well at home and locally too!

So… a TRAVELER'S COMPANY notebook consists of, first and foremost, a simple, staple-bound notebook in one of four layouts: plain, ruled, squared and dotgrid. The paper is good for pretty much any type of writing instrument and ink, because for every traveller that prefers a ballpoint, there'll be plenty more who swear by fountain pens or rollerballs, or who just like to use a pencil. And speaking of them... No! I'm jumping ahead, sorry. It's Midori MD paper, which is famously good in its own right.

I'll continue with the basics. Right, where was I? Oh yes, paper. Well, there are different types of paper, too, including some for sketching and super-thin, super-fine Tomoe River. You can add perpetual diary pages too, which are always useful when planning jaunts, and because they're not limited by dates, you can confidently start off in the middle of a month if you like, without the guilt of wasted pages.

Then there's the leather cover, which will age over time and become a thing of even more beauty, to protect the inner notebook. It's got elastic to hold it secure, and more elastic to keep the whole bundle together. What's more, the cover will hold more than one notebook, so if you can't decide between ruled and plain, for example, well, you don't have to: just have one of each! And why not add a planner as well, or some sketching paper while you're about it.

You can stop there if you like. But if not, ooh, where do I start? OK, photos. Well, they're always a good addition to any self-respecting traveller's notebook, and TRAVELER'S COMPANY offer the perfect way to keep them safe: Pocket Stickers and Pocket Seals! All you do is stick them in your notebook and they'll display not just photos but tickets and receipts, and even small mementoes such as shells, pebbles and other treasures.

What if you need different parts of your notebook to record different things, and you need to see instantly where to navigate to, to find your flight time, or your travel plan? Marking pages with sticky notes is fine, but even better are TRAVELER'S COMPANY Index Clips. They're made of brass, another material that - like the leather covers - will become even more gorgeous with use. There's room in them for a hand-written label and you just slide them onto your notebook pages for instant - and beauteous - reference.

Now, you can have as many notebooks as you like, but most are pretty useless without some kind of writing implement. TRAVELER'S COMPANY do those too. And - like the rest of the range - they're designed very much with portability in mind. First off, like the Index Clips, they're made of brass: sturdy, saltwater-resistant (useful for when you're travelling by sea) and good to look at. Secondly, you can choose from a fountain pen, rollerball or ballpoint, and you can throw in a matching pencil holder as well. When capped, all of them (pencil included) are just 10 centimetres long and they're all refillable with readily-available refills. Oh, and they all have a pocket clip which can be removed if you don't need it, and the pens have a little ring on the end of the cap which you can use to attach to a keyring or lanyard.

But if you don't want to attach your chosen writing instrument to anything other than your notebook, then there are TRAVELER'S COMPANY penholders. Of course! But these are not just any penholders, oh no. These consist of a metal clip that slides snugly onto the side of your notebook cover and which is attached to a leather loop which will hug your pen or pencil and keep it safe, so there's little chance of its going missing when these chaps are on the case (or on the notebook).

So there's me waxing lyrical about travelling around but you don't actually have to travel to use a TRAVELER'S COMPANY notebook. They're excellent for journaling, especially because of how flexible they are, and they'd make a great portable sketchbook. You could use it for a daily - or not so daily - diary, or notes for that novel you keep saying you're going to write. Your TRAVELER'S COMPANY notebook can - in all honesty - be whatever you want it to be.

HANDWRITING YOUR WEDDING INVITATIONS

Yes, we know, it's a bit dark and dreary out there - although the days are getting longer (yes, they are) - but there's light at the end of the tunnel. Believe it or not the wedding season will be on us before you know it, when posh frocks take centre stage and fights over the guest list provide many an evening's entertainment. But why are we talking about weddings? Well, our lovely friends over at Dotty About Paper, your go-to guys for all things wedding, have a few handy hints up their (seed pearl-embroidered) sleeves, and they involve... yes, you guessed it - pens!

It will be an exciting moment for all your lovely wedding guests when their 'Save the Dates' or invitations arrive in the post! Whether your wedding day has been long-anticipated or the news arrives as a pleasant surprise, it's their first peek into the aesthetic you plan on carrying throughout your big day, whether that's a fresh and vibrant springtime vibe, or a cosy and intimate autumn-inspired celebration. Naturally, these first interactions hold a great deal of importance, so - of course - you want to make sure you make the perfect first impression! Why not add that extra special touch by hand writing them? It's a great way of adding that flare of sophistication and creating a timeless, elegant look that should leave a lasting impression on all your guests. And each, of course, will be unique!

The Perfect Handwriting

Now, not all of us are blessed with beautiful penmanship, but if you love the idea of handwriting your invitations and being able to add that really personal touch, there are various ways and means to help you create a perfectly professional look.

• Take your time! With a task as intricate and detailed as handwriting your invitations, it's crucial to slow down and ensure you enjoy the process
• Go steady! The key to beautifully-written invitations is a steady hand. So create a calm and relaxing environment for yourself
• Practice makes perfect! If you're anything like me you're probably dying to dive straight in and get started from pure excitement. Don't! Take a day or two, maybe even a week, to find the perfect formula for your 'save the dates' and invitations. You'll make mistakes - but learn from them, so you get it right when it comes to the real deal!
• Line up, line up! Pencil in a line guide to help you keep the lines nice and straight
• Remember SPAG! No, not a certain Italian pasta dish, but spelling, punctuation and grammar. Get them right!
• Prepare and invest in the right tools. To get the perfect look, you need to make sure you have the ideal equipment to do so. Along with ensuring you have the best quality invitations on beautiful paper, you also need to make sure you have the perfect pen, knowing it will work with you to create a masterpiece!

The Perfect Pen

It goes without saying that with the special occasion that is your wedding day comes the need not just for a significant other, but for a significant writing companion as well. This is the perfect excuse to treat yourself to a gorgeous new pen, or it may even turn out to be your first ever fancy pen! However, unless you've used good quality pens before, or have dabbled in the art of calligraphy, you may be a bit stumped when it comes to what constitutes a 'good pen'. Like shoes, the perfect pen for one person is not necessarily the perfect pen for another: what makes it perfect for you depends on your grip, the pressure you apply, the size and style of your writing and also whether you're left- or right-handed!

• Think ink! You'll want to ensure that the ink you're writing with is ideally suited for the aesthetic and feel of your invitations. It should glide smoothly from the pen, allowing for a beautiful, romantic style.
• Comfort over style... Whether you're planning a smaller and more intimate wedding, or you're organising a celebration on a grand scale, there's going to be a lot of writing going on! Make sure the pen you choose is comfortable to hold and is natural to use for long periods.

To help you along your journey to the perfect pen, we've spoken to our good friends over at Cult Pens, who are experts in this area and offer a great range to choose from. Here are some of their top picks:

• Pentel Sterling fountain pen
• Kaweco Classic Sport fountain pen
• Pentel EnerGel Sterling Gel rollerball
There's

to choose from to fill the fountain pens, and the rollerball comes with smooth-flowing, quick-drying gel ink. There's a lot more at Cult Pens in a variety of price ranges, styles and colours so you're sure to find your perfect pen match! What's even better, all of these great products work perfectly on Tree of Hearts stationery; from 'save the dates' to thank you cards, you're sure to create magic with a match made in heaven!

When done correctly, there's nothing better than a handwritten invitation. It will never fail to wow your wedding guests, family and friends and give them that feeling of being considered extra-special to you and your partner due to that personal touch. But, of course, if you're still unsure or would much rather leave it to a professional, we provide printed wedding stationery, so you're definitely in safe hands!

Whatever route your choose, I'm sure your wedding invitations will look beautiful and give your guests that wonderfully exciting wow factor.

From
Hannah x
at Dotty About Paper